Day 38, Naxos

storm 22 °C

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The day was very bright and sunny as we ate our breakfast on the patio. We chatted about our plans for the day. We were going to the beach. Our swim suits were on and our towels packed. We found the ATV and left for some coffee. We filled up the tank with gas and took off down the road. We went straight to the beach and then rode the dirt roads as close to the sea as possible. We saw beautiful beaches but we kept on going, we wanted to see what it was like at the end. We rode all the way down to Agiassos, the furtherest south you can get. The beaches there were not very nice and a storm was brewing. We didn’t even take pictures, the place gave us an eerie feeling. Most of the towns we drive through are very small, so small that when we see someone we notice. In this town, like most, there was no one around. The clouds were an ominous grey and the wind was picking up, we turned around quick to race the storm.
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Cracks of lightening flashed as we sped (safely of course, mom) down dirt roads, flying through potholes and bouncing over rocks. Our goal was to get to Vigla where we would stop and have lunch. We made it just as it started to rain. The restaurant where we dined had only a thatched roof, so we still got a little wet. We ate very well! I finally had my spanakopita, which was so much better than I’ll ever be able to make it, and stuffed tomatoes, loaded with onions, rice and spices. Shane had the best sausage he claims he’s eaten, and I’d agree that it was very good. Service here is incredibly slow (maybe only slow because of what I’m used to) and to get anything here you have to ask. They come to your table exactly twice, once about 10 minutes after you sit down, to grab an order and once to bring that entire order all at once. If you want anything else (including the bill) you need to be very obvious that you are flagging them down, or they will (pretend?) not see you. That said service is very nice, and the people seem to enjoy having us there.
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It was still dark when we finished eating, but our only plans for this once sunny day had been to suntan, so we said a little prayer and climbed into the rocks. We found a little cove with enough room for two and laid down our mats. For about 5 minutes the sun came and then, in big, fat, heavy drops of (very cold!) water the skies opened. We tried to hold out, we hoped it would pass. We got wetter and wetter. Shane noticed something in the bushes 8 feet from us. It was a little white dog. Creepy? I think so. It wanted nothing to do with us, and it had clearly been there for a while. So we left it, climbed back over the rocks and rode to Plaka beach.
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our beach
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From the road I couldn’t see the beach but we knew it was there so we got off and started walking. The beach had coarser sand to it and was difficult to walk down but we made it to a little alcove, a section divided from every other. The sun was coming out and the storm blowing away. We had the beach to ourselves, and we decided that it was then a private beach for us. A nude private beach. The sun here is very intense. When it’s behind a cloud the temperature drops dramatically. When it comes out if feels as though someone is lowering a heat lamp closer and closer to your skin. It is very hot. We tanned for a few minutes and then walked into the water. We worked up the courage to drunk ourselves in the frigid water. 1, 2, 3 – we did it! But now I ask you, why would you? It’s awful! Salt water pains my sinuses. It fills up my ears and stings my eyes and throat. It is a most unpleasant feeling. I did find out that the Mediterranean Sea a higher salt content than the oceans, maybe it’s not as bad at home? I’ve never swam in the Pacific. We repeated the pattern a few more times, tan, swim, tan, swim, before we left. We went back home to wash off the salt that dried white on the little hairs on my arms and legs.
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We walked out along the wave break to watch the sunset but mother nature had other plans and it started to rain once again. We tiptoed our way back across the slippery rocks and headed out on the ATV in search of really good dinner. We stopped in at a grill house outside of the tourist area. It had only one couple dining but a spit roasted whole chickens and huge pieces of pork. We feasted on feta saganaki (best thing ever!), tzatziki, a really good cabbage salad, with only carrots, salt, green cabbage, and fruity delicious olive oil. Simple is best I’m telling you! Then we had two plates of pork from the spit and beautifully roasted fingerling potatoes. We were in heaven.
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It was another wonderful day in Naxos.

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